At the third Concours Mondial du Sauvignon, a conference was organised and moderated on March 15 in Bordeaux by British journalist David Cobbold. It was the perfect opportunity to describe the archetypal characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards around the world, namely New Zealand, Loire Touraine, Centre-Loire, Bordeauxand Italy.

This introductory insight illustrated comments by Professor Denis Dubourdieu, the competition’s original patron, for whom Sauvignon’s strong personality – its multi-faceted nature dictated by site and climate – makes it stand out from other great white varietals.

David Cobbold summed up the aim of the conference as a presentation of a prestigious varietal displaying a comprehensive variety of styles and types, sometimes within the same country, through the eyes of five experts. Sauvignon is widely grown and therefore coverage could not be extended to all producer countries in this maiden conference. Bordeaux, the Loire – with Touraine and Sancerre – New Zealand and Italy were the first stops on this tour.

Bordeaux

Axel Marchal - Researcher at the Faculty of Oenology in Bordeaux
Thesis under the supervision of Denis Dubourdieu on sweetness in dry wines

“Although Bordeaux is not the most northerly site for growing Sauvignon, it is far enough north to produce a broad range of varietal expressions. Its diversity varies according to the influence of the vintage on the growth cycle which has a significant impact on expression in the wines.

“In Bordeaux, the ripening process is shorter than in the Loire, although we achieve optimum expression in late-ripening years. The 2010 vintage is an illustration of this and Sauvignons develop highly personal aromas.

“The influence of the climate follows through to the diverse range of soil types in Bordeaux. The multiplicity of soils on which Sauvignon is grown yields a range of styles. Intense citrus aromas in fruity Sauvignons are augmented in cooler years by a noble vegetal tone (fern, broom or boxwood), forming the hallmark characteristics of the varietal. Other Bordeaux soils offer up different nuances: clay soils produce wines that are less fresh and acidic whilst Sauvignon on gravelly soils is often coupled with Sémillon and usually oak-aged.”

Tasting – Château Reynon 2010 (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux). The vines are grown on limestone soils. The hue is extremely pale and evolves slowly. The nose captures some of the aromas mentioned above: citrus fruits, bergamot, nuances of fern, broom and blackcurrant bud. On the palate, acidity is pronounced. Bordeaux Sauvignons are fresh and balanced by a “non-sugary sweetness” (in that it is not produced by residual sugar). The finish is fresh and there is no sensation of heaviness or tannins which may seem rustic. The wine is made in stainless steel tanks (80%) and large capacity oak tanks (20%) so to avoid oak notes yet emphasise the sensation of sweetness on the palate. Retail price: 5-12 €.

New Zealand
Paul White - journalist

“My aim at this conference is to put New Zealand into perspective. New Zealand is located between latitudes which in France are on a par with Bordeaux in the north and the Loire in the south.

“The country is formed of two islands. North Island specialises more in red wines (Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah) whereas South Island has a cooler climate and is a benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Noir. The most famous region is Marlborough in the far north-east of South Island which has established New Zealand’s reputation for Sauvignon Blanc.

“New Zealand is affected by the disappearance of the ozone layer in the southern hemisphere. The sky is extremely bright and light levels are 30% higher than at similar latitudes in France. This brightness is a highly significant factor in fruit ripening. The intense light increases fruit ripening yet with the same level of acidity, thereby intensifying aromatic sensations. Light levels are the same as in the Sahara yet the climate is a lot cooler and the influence of the Ocean and Arctic is heightened. Acidity is therefore retained and can be compared to northern European wines like those of the Mosel or the Rheingau”.

Tasting 1 - Sauvignon Blanc Clos Henri 2011 (Marlborough). A classic style wine with strong varietal expression (passion fruit, citrus), exuberant fruit salad aromas with intense vegetal notes recalling tomato leaf. The wines complement Asian cuisine that is very widespread in New Zealand. Retail price: 10-12 €.

Tasting 2 - Kidnapper Cliffs – Solan 2009 (Hawkes Bay). The second New Zealand wine tasted came from Hawkes Bay and was similar in style to Bordeaux with a considerably hotter climate. Wines from the region are often vinted like Chardonnay (blending, oak ageing). Pronounced citrus and passion fruit expression yet no vegetal aromas. The wines show ageability and sit comfortably alongside more classic types of food. Retail price: 10-12 €.

Touraine
Jean-Pierre Gouvazé - Regional representative of the Touraine Wine Bureau

“Touraine is one of the four sub-regions of the Loire Valley, between the Massif Central, Ile de France and the Atlantic. The Muscadet area, which borders on the ocean, Anjou-Saumur in the valley, Touraine further east and Sancerre in Centre-Loire are all well-known regions. Located between Tours and Blois, the Touraine wine region is home to 5,000 ha of vines including 2,000 ha of Sauvignon Blanc.

“From a climate perspective, our weather is under the dual influence of the ocean and the continental system. The three predominant soil types are clay-limestone, silica and sand.”

Tasting: Domaine Thierry Michaud – Val de Loire Eclat de Silex - 2010.The estate and this particular block are located on the right bank of the Cher. The vines are 45 years old. The wines are aged in stainless steel for one year. Typical varietal notes are exuded: freshly-cut grass, citrus and occasionally ripe fruits such as apricot and even honey. On the palate, freshness and acidity form the backbone of these Touraine wines. The balance of acidity and ripeness are pivotal for these wines which are comfortable with classic gourmet dishes. AOC Touraine wines retail for 4 to 8€. This one costs 6/7€.

Frioul (Italy)
Roberto Zironi – Professor of Oenology at the University of Udine (capital of Friuli)

“Sauvignon is widely grown in the north eastern part of the Italian peninsula. Of the 3,693 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc planted in Italy, half are in north eastern Italy (Friuli, Veneto). If you add Trentin, the percentage rises to around 80%.

“The earliest traces of the varietal date from the start of the 17th century. The local climate is ideal and provides enough variety for Sauvignon to express idiosyncratic characteristics. Most of the vines are therefore grown within a rectangle 100 km from east to west and 50km from north to south where from sea to mountain there are significant climatic and geological differences. This variety is reflected in the wines grown here”.

Tasting: Le Vigne di Zanò – Colli Orientali del Friuli – 100% Sauvignon 2010. Sauvignons from Friuli have a long cellaring capacity though traditionally they are drunk within the year. Acidity tends to fade but the long-lasting structure is what really supports the wine and imparts depth. In terms of aromatics, aromas tend to flirt more with elderflower than citrus fruits. The sensation of sweetness is, once again, due to the structure of the wine and not any residual sugar. Retail price: between 4 and 15€; 12€ for the wine tasted.

Centre-Loire
Benoît Roumet – Director of the Central France Wine Board

“We are located in the centre of France, 200 km south of Paris. Sauvignon Blanc is grown in all of our six appellations (Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Menetou-Salon, Reuilly, Coteaux du Giennois and Quincy) and accounts for 75% of the varietal range and 82% of production.

“Traditionally, and prior to phylloxera, we used to produce mainly reds and rosés, primarily from Pinot and Gamay. Sauvignon Blanc was very successfully grafted and immediately produced good results which sped up the switch to white wines.

“The climate is mainly semi-continental and therefore very well-suited to Sauvignon Blanc although there are marked differences within the region and even within a single appellation. It is not uncommon for grapes to ripen 2 to 3 weeks apart. The influence of the vintage is therefore crucial.

“There are four types of soils: sand and gravel (Quincy and Reuilly), clay-limestone (Giennois, Sancerre, Menetou and Pouilly), limestone (or pebbles) in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, and finally silica-rich clay in Menetou, Sancerre, Pouilly and Coteaux du Giennois. These climates and soils have a strong influence on Sauvignon Blanc and deliver different types of wines.

“Over the last five years, growers have been promoting wines from specific blocks thereby taking the concept of terroir to its ultimate expression. Choice of harvest dates is also critical as they have a great impact on the wine. Chronologically, aromas range from “cat’s pee” to more lemony aromas, ending with exotic fruit. Depending on the vintage, picking at the right moment is therefore essential.

“Very often in Centre-Loire, grapefruit is the characteristic aroma. Varietal expression can be so varied that this must be taken on board at every stage of winemaking, including pressing, lengthy ageing on fine lees and 99% in tanks. Oak is definitely out of the question or should at least be large capacity tanks so as not to have too strong an influence on the wine. It’s like salt, if you can taste it, you’ve used too much!

“Wines from Centre-Loire drink well over the first 2 to 3 years, depending mainly on soil types. Some will keep for 15 years or more, especially if the vines are planted on silica soils. By way of a conclusion, a word on food pairings. As we say locally, the wines go down easily on their own! The region has five goats cheese appellations and the two pair well although Asian cuisine, especially Japanese, also complement our wines extremely well”.

Tasting: Pouilly Fumé 2010 – Benoît Roumé. Extremely classic, grown on silica soils. Freshness, subtle aromatics, finesse, length and balance are what you would expect from a Centre-Loire Sauvignon. Retail price: from 6 to 120 €; this one is 8€ at the cellar door.

The third Concours Mondial du Sauvignon took place on March 16 and 17 at the Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur growers’ organisation HQ in Bordeaux. The contest aims to promote wines made from the varietal and to increase public awareness of the comprehensive range of Sauvignon Blanc wines worldwide. The next Concours Mondial du Sauvignon will take place on April 26 and 27 April, 2013 at Château de Blois in the Loire Valley, one of the varietal’s greatest homes. With a mission to rally the industry around the varietal and promote excellence in the world of Sauvignon Blanc, the competition has naturally gone on tour.

Frédéric Galtier

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